Real Algarve: Exploring Portugal Away from the Beach

I don’t mind taking the same walk repeatedly,” commented Joana Almeida, crouching near a cluster of plants. “On every occasion, there are different details – these flowers weren’t present the day before.”

Rising on stalks a minimum of two centimetres high and starring the ground with white petals, the reality that these delicate blooms emerged in a single night was a remarkable proof of how swiftly nature can regenerate in this undulating, inland part of the Algarve, the national forest of Barão de São João.

It was also reassuring to learn that in an region affected by forest fires in September, varieties such as arbutus trees – which are less flammable thanks to their reduced sap – were commencing to recover, together with highly flammable eucalyptus, which obstructs other slow-burning trees such as oak. Community members were being recruited to help with rewilding.

Tourist Numbers and Inland Interest

Travel figures to the Algarve are increasing, with this year registering an rise of 2.6% on the previous year – but the bulk of visitors go directly to the coast, even though there being a great deal more to discover.

The coastline is certainly rugged and breathtaking, but the region is also eager to promote the attraction of its inland areas. With the development of year-round hiking and cycling trails, plus the introduction of nature festivals, attention is being directed to these equally engaging sceneries, including hills and lush forests.

The Algarve Walking Season hosts a program of five hiking events with general themes such as “water” and “archaeology” between late autumn and early spring. It’s anticipated they will encourage explorers throughout the year, strengthening the regional economy and aiding slow the exodus of young people moving away in quest of employment.

Art and Nature Blend

Our visit to the wooded reserve coincided with a weekend festival with the subject of “art”, based around the white-washed village to the northwest of Barão de São João.

Along with guided hikes, departing from the local hub, free events ranged from learning how to make plant-based dyes, to theatre workshops, meditative movement and sketching. There were several photography exhibitions available as well as a number of other family-oriented activities, such as nature hunts and crafting bird-feeders.

Prior to our drop-in afternoon screen-printing class at the cultural centre, our hike into the woods with Joana had the vibe of an art trail. Indicated at the outset by monoliths decorated with depictions of traditional agricultural folk, it was dotted along the way with smaller, installed stones depicting types of animals, featuring hedgehogs and wild cats – the wild cat’s population recovering, because of a rescue facility located in the castle town of Silves.

Breathtaking Paths and Outdoor Beauty

As the route ascended to its summit, the menhir (monolith) on the Pedra do Galo walk, it became more thickly wooded with the piney aroma of conifer. There was a richness to the air and solid, amber-hued globules swelled from wood. Chalky rock shone underfoot and minute amphibians rested by pond edges, vocal sacs throbbing. In the distance, wind turbines cartwheeled against the sky.

Francisco Simões, our guide the following day, was again enthusiastic to emphasize that these interior zones can be discovered year-round. Signposted trails, established in the last decade, are offshoots of the Via Algarviana, a route that stretches from the Spanish boundary for 186 miles, continuously to the ocean, and many are now tied to an application that makes navigation more straightforward.

Nature Tourism and Local Activities

Francisco founded ecotourism outfit Algarvian Roots in the recent past and provides experiences from birdwatching to all-day led walks, all with the similar goals as the AWS: to promote the region by way of immersion, education and traditional knowledge.

The creative link is here, as well – his parent, ceramicist Margarida Palma Gomes, had instructed us to decorate azulejos, the distinctive traditional colored decorative panels seen all over the land, a couple of days before on a festival workshop. Excursions to her workshop, in addition to to a area ceramicist, can further be organized through Algarvian Roots.

Francisco urged us to play our part for the sector by enjoying plenty of good wine sealed with cork

Following an excellent midday meal of pork cheek and cabbage in A Charrette in Monchique, a quaint upland village bordered by the Algarve’s most elevated summits, the 902-metre Fóia and 774-metre Picota, Francisco guided us down sharply historic roads and into a alleyway, where an older couple relaxed in the sun at the front of their house.

A steep path guided us into the woodland, the ground covered in acorns. At this spot, Francisco was eager to show us oak trees, Portugal’s emblematic species and conserved under regulation since the 13th century. Not just are they naturally fire-resistant, but their flexible bark is a means of livelihood for residents, who gather it to trade to other {industries|sectors

David Jackson
David Jackson

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